I wouldn’t add a new glass sheet + magnetic sheet + PEI sheet on top of the original bed on a bed slinger because this is probably at least twice the weight of stock, which will cause issues when you get it moving back and forth rapidly. Think of how agile a petite individual can be compared to someone the same height who weighs 300lbs.
Just get the $25 magnetic sheet and PEI plate, and slap them both on there. If you do go the route of a new aluminum bed, you can heat this bed up to 80 or 90C and then peel the heat pad off of it and stick it onto your new bed. I did both these on my old Sidewinder X2 but didn’t notice much benefit to the aluminum bed (the OEM glass bed was slightly warped and concave), so I didn’t find it worth the money to be honest. I think it’s worth trying in stages since you’re not really out any money if you decide the simpler and cheaper solution doesn’t cut it.
I disagree with it being a first layer issue otherwise it would be failing much earlier not 80% of the way through the print. If the first layer being too thick were the issue, it would also be visible or colliding with every layer below this one too and those layers appear to be fine.
Do you have other filament to test with? That would help isolate the issue to either the filament or the printer. It could be the Z axis screws need lubrication especially if you notice this issue happening at around the same height.
How many hours are on your nozzle? Ive had to swap out my nozzle on my X1C after having similar issues and they went away. Even the hardened steel nozzles wear out and allow too much flow through them which leaves extra plastic on the print that can lead to collisions.
Check serverpartdeals.com for HDDs. They’re used enterprise drives so they’re much cheaper, but there’s always the possibility of getting a bad drive so they should be tested first. If you’re just storing pirated stuff the risk isn’t super great since you can just find the files again. The next best option is shucking external drives like WD Elements/Easystore/MyBook as they’re typically half the price of the bare WD Red drives and are virtually the same thing with a different label. I have bought about 15 drives using both these methods and haven’t had any issues. The shucked drives have been in use since as far back as 2018.
A better value is just getting 6th gen or newer Intel CPU and using its built-in GPU to do the transcoding. If you want a discrete GPU, any low powered card that supports HEVC should work. Alternatively, you can get something like a Roku device to connect to your TV as they have pretty good compatibility and you’ll avoid transcoding all together.
What are you using for storage?
I don’t have IG either but I do know TheKitKiln is based out of Thangs.com. This dude used to go by BigBricks and had a ton of incredible Lego megafig designs before Lego and Disney sent him a cease and desist. His work is always top notch and all of his stuff is designed to work without AMS or glue.
This seems more like a server with a built-in NAS, but i agree it’s probably way overkill for most, though it seems like an awesome product at first glance. It’s like they took every component and cranked it up to 11. I wish we saw more of this in the consumer electronics segment and less “let’s strip or nerf everything we possibly can before sales tank. Our margins are so great this quarter!”
This is one change (which isn’t the cause of OP’s problem) that they announced months ago. I’ve been using it for well over a decade and while I have had major issues with it in the past going so far as to setup Emby and buying a lifetime license for that, I would hardly say that they’re “constantly changing allowed abilities.”
Most people’s issue with them is that they focus too much on adding new stuff that nobody asked for while ignoring longtime bugs. I can’t recall a time they’ve ever locked anything behind a paywall that wasn’t a brand new feature prior to this.
OP has a misconfigured server and isn’t connecting to their server over LAN.
Why not 3D print something for it? I printed this to make a digital photo frame with a Pi 4 and the official 7" Pi touch display. https://www.printables.com/model/44218-7-touchscreen-case-for-raspberry-pi-4-internal-fan
Printing it with something strong should help keep it safe in an accident though you’ll need to create a mounting solution.
I’d argue it’s closer to hand made than manufacturing due to most people only having the ability to crank out small batches of prints as a side hustle. I still think it’s short sighted and wonder why other CNC devices aren’t also being banned like CNC routers, laser cutters, laser engravers, pen plotters, etc since these all use similar designs and mechanical systems. Where do you draw the line? I can understand only wanting hand made or vintage items but if technology is advancing past that and the market isn’t really there for those items, then what’s the purpose of the site? What are they going to tell both buyers and sellers that they’re not the type of clientele they want on their platform? That seems nuts as a business.
Interesting that just blasting metal with high speed metal particles actually offers structural support back to the metal. I wonder how the strength compared to a new piece of metal of the same thickness.
That doesn’t really answer the question and also introduces issues with situations like Bambu’s Creator’s Program (or whatever it’s called) where you can pay the model creator for the rights to sell the item. I don’t see why they need to target 3D prints specifically when Etsy is absolutely chock full of similar duplicates in other mediums. They’re just going to drive people away to a new site, which is fine I suppose, but seems incredibly short sighted.
I went through the exact same situation with my 20 year old music collection and MusicBrainz Picard and unfortunately this is just the state of music piracy even now as things are rarely tagged correctly or come from compilation albums, sample albums, or are just obscure and don’t have the proper tags available on the service. This is why I don’t mind paying for music streaming even though I selfhost most other media formats because you can put in days of work tagging songs and still have a jumbled mess at the end (Picard’s tagging template is also a huge PITA to use with some obscure legacy language).
How do you prove you’re the creator of a model without directly handing your IP over to this company?
Probably not much of a difference. These mini PCs can run at single digit wattage too and you won’t be buying new SD cards every 6 months.
The market is about to be flooded with them with Windows 10 going EoL in October.
I bet you could instead use an ESP32 for GPIO and just connect it remotely to whatever Pi alternative you use (if needed at all). Turning some switches on and off while monitoring input values doesn’t sound very computationally intensive.
Z1 is just single parity.
AFAIK expanding a ZFS pool is a new feature. Its used in Proxmox but their version hasn’t been updated yet, so I don’t have the ability to try it out yet. It t should be available to you otherwise.
Sweet build! I have all these parts laying around so this would be a fun project. Please share your enclosure design if you’d like!